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Kondratiev, who started work at the plant 33 years ago, works at Chernobyl checking radiation measuring equipment. All undergo daily radiation checks, including the train.Ī rusting nuclear sign on a building in Pripyat, which was evacuated within days of the Chernobyl disaster. Every evening, around 4.30pm it disgorges them back in Slavutych. Today, the number of former Pripyat residents in Slavutych has dwindled to fewer than one in three, but thousands are still to this day employed at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant, despite its closure under European Union pressure in 2000.Įvery morning the train from Slavutych transports workers such as 62-year-old Pasha Kondratiev, 50 minutes along the line to its only destination: the Chernobyl plant. At the time, the new city mayor, Volodimir Udovichenko, told them: “If Pripyat represents destruction, defeat, a lost city, a dead city – then Slavutych is the resurrection”. Photographs in the city’s museum capture the excitement of the first residents: many followed the Ukrainian tradition of letting a cat cross the threshold of their new homes for good luck. As a result, each district has its own distinctive cultural and ethnic features: so, flats and houses in the Georgian district have more decoration than those in the more austere Russian district next door.
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Architects and construction workers from eight former Soviet republics – Armenia, Azerbaijan, Estonia, Georgia, Latvia, Lituania, Russia and Ukraine – were each tasked with creating one of the city’s eight districts. The area on which it was built was first covered in two metres of fresh, uncontaminated soil. Many of the families evacuated from Pripyat moved to this city, Slavutych – the old Slavic name of the nearby Dnieper River.Īlexander Zabirchenko was awarded the highest distinction in the Soviet Union for returning to Chernobyl to fight the fires. Six months after the disaster, the Soviet authorities declared a new city would be built around 30 miles to the north-east of the power station, to replace the old one. None ever returned to live in Pripyat, declared too radioactively dangerous for human habitation for at least 24,000 years. They were told they would be gone for two or three days and advised to take the minimum: identity papers, documents, food and clothing. In under four hours, more than 49,000 people left their homes, most shuttled away from the plant – but not the cloud of radioactive dust carried by wind over swaths of western Europe – by a fleet of 1,200 buses. It took 36 hours after an ill-judged test on Reactor Number 4 at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant went catastrophically wrong, for the Soviet authorities to order the evacuation of Pripyat, just two miles from the plant. If Pripyat represents destruction, defeat, a lost city, a dead city – then Slavutych is the resurrection Volodimir Udovichenko The story of Pripyat and Slavutych is a tale of twin cities: Pripyat, a former model Soviet metropolis built to house Chernobyl workers but abandoned to radioactive contamination and the ravages of nature Slavutych, an urban phoenix that rose from the ashes of the disaster to replace it. The Chernobyl nuclear power plant soon after the accident in 1986. Three decades on, they will remember not just the dead, but the memories and dreams they left behind in Pripyat, the ghost city that was once their home. Next month, thousands of men, women and children in the northern Ukrainian city of Slavutych, will gather at the memorial here to light candles to the 30 initial victims of the world’s worst nuclear accident. They saved not just Ukraine, Russia or the Soviet Union as it was, but the whole of Europe.” They died preventing an even bigger disaster. “These men were the heroes every one of them.
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He bats away the honour with a wave of his hand. They were colleagues and friends.”Īs one of the many Chernobyl workers who returned to the devastated plant to fight the fires, Zabirchenko is an official “ Hero of the Soviet Union”. “Here is Valeri, and here Vladimir and Alexandr and Anatoli … I knew these men,” he says.
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He is a big man and draws himself up to his full height before each sombre stone. He does not shiver or complain of the cold. I n a biting winter wind, Alexander Petrovich Zabirchenko walks slowly along a memorial to firefighters and workers who died in the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, touching each of the portraits engraved in granite.